The category of organic wines is growing slowly but steadily. The USDA lists certain requirements in order for wines to be certified as organic. These prerequisites state that a grape’s origin must be from pesticide-free vineyards. A wine maker is also prohibited from adding any additional sulfites to the wine. Although the movement is still a little green, there are several easily accessible brands producing quality wines.

If California had an organic wine Mecca, then it might very well be Mendocino County. Lolonis Vineyards in Mendocino has been making organic wines long before it was trendy. Their non-vintage Cuvee of French Columbard, Semillon, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay has naturally solved the dilemma of how to be pesticide free. Lolonis Lady Bug White comes from vineyards that use Mother Nature’s own pest remover, the lady bug. Smooth as slate with fresh mineral notes and stone fruit flavors, Lolonis Lady Bug White is a perfect patio sipper and one of the more affordable organic wines at $13.44. It also comes in a red blend mysteriously dubbed Lolonis Lady Bug Red.

Another of Mendocino County’s organic output comes from Jeriko Vineyards, the 2003 Jeriko Merlot. With a vanilla creaminess and loads of soft fruit flavors of plum and cherry, Jeriko Merlot makes it easy for the rookie organic consumer to cross over to the green side. The Jeriko Merlot may cost a little more at $18.99, but it’s a biodynamic attempt at doing what comes naturally. Similarly, if you’re looking for the same quality that is also food friendly, then check out the 2003 Jeriko Syrah with its drier style and heartier overtones.

Roger Killen
Sunday, February 24, 2008

  Paul Dolan’s roots are planted firmly in biodynamic practices, trailblazing in sustainable farming.

After 27 years with Fetzer Vineyards, Winemaker and later President, Paul Dolan, devotes his time to working 70 acres of biodynamic grapes at Dark Horse Ranch near Ukiah. Paul with his son Jason helps manage the vineyards.

“Biodynamic is just good farming” Dolan said. “We lost the art of farming”. It became totally technical. Any type of mechanization or new system or chemical, we were immediately attracted to and thought it was going to improve productivity and improve quality. “What was lost there was the exploration, the discovery”.

It was over the years that he began to sense the importance of sustainablility. From the growing of the grapes to the building of the business and the nurturing of employees. He thought about it enough to lay out a blueprint in book form: “True to Our Roots: Fermenting a Business Revolution” came out in 2003. Dolan wrote, his entire way of thinking about grape growing was about to change, with huge ramifications for him personally. He concluded that the wine industry wouldn’t have a future under standard operating procedures. There had to be a better, more sustainable way.

Dolan also introduced the Code of Sustainable Wine Growing to members of the Wine Institute, a public policy advocacy group for California wineries formed in 1934. His code become a workbook laying out the ecological, economic and social criteria for becoming sustainable. Dolan later served as chairman of the Wine Institute which had 928 members in 2006-07.

Dolans’s message and methods resonated not only because of what he was saying but because of who he was — a winemaker and businessman not only talking the talk but walking the walk.

When Dolan bought the Dark Horse Ranch in 1998, Vines were dying, fences had fallen into disrepair, and the buildings needed reconstruction. Paul Dolan with sons Heath and Jason rebuilt and replanted, focusing on grenach noir, syrah, petite sirah and zinfandel with smaller amounts of cabernet sauvignon and mourvedre.

But in going biodynamic, even Dolan had some convincing to do. When he said biodynamic the first time to his sons, there reaction was no way. But when he said its not really about that, it’s about listening, opening up your awareness and exploring new ways of farming, that’s how I got my boys involved.

Biodynamics is a form of farming that attempts to be self-sustained, self-contained and harmonious with nature. There is an international certifying body called Demeter whose standards are said to exceed those of the National Organic Program.

In the vineyard, Dolan tries to create the best possible environment for his grapes to grow in, putting in different cover crops that have different blooms to attract different insects and also absorb nitrogen out of the air. Ultimately it comes down to the soil Dolan figures, so he feeds the soil with compost, with biodynamic preparations — instead of feeding the plant. His methods are attracting a host of interested grape buyers from St. Helena to Anderson Valley.

In 2004, Dolan started making his own wines from some of the grapes under the label Paul Dolan Vineyards, wines he crafts over at Parducci.

By 2006 he felt the quality of what was coming off Dark Horse Ranch was starting to exceed even his own expectations. The perception of biodynamic grapes is high Dolan says but not everybody’s willing to do it themselves, but they know it’s good, and there is something unique going on.

Did you know that there is approximately 50 wineries located in 3 clusters in Mendocino County. On Highway 101 there is the Hopland area, then further north there is Ukiah and Redwood Valley and Potter Valley. Then of course on Highway 128 the Yorkville Highlands and the Anderson Valley.

There are also 6 appellations located in Mendocino County. There is the Anderson Valley, Potter Valley, Redwood Valley, Yorkville Highlands, Cole Ranch and McDowell Valley. Applications are in progress for still more appellations, with the most important being the widely planted Ukiah and Sanel Valleys along the Russian River.

While most Mendocino vineyards fall into one of the current or proposed AVA’s many small vineyards dot the hills and dales of the rugged region. These legacy vineyards from Mendocino immigrant past give the region its identity as a home to Mediterranean red varieties, including Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Charbono and Grenache. Yet Mendocino’s Anderson Valley is also home to some of Americas most sought after Alsation whites, prestige sparkling wines, and high-octane Pinot Noir.

                                                                   Map of Mendocino Wineries

Coro Mendocino

Also Mendocino County vintners created “Coro Mendocino” five years ago to showcase the county’s “heritage grapes” imported by immigrants from the Mediterranean basin. To qualify as a Coro bottling, the wine must be 100% Mendocino grown, and come from Zinfandel, Syrah, Petite Sirah and other grapes that have been grown in the county for generations.

But in a unique twist, Coro wines must be a blend of a number of these varieties. Of course such regionally-based blends are common in Europe. Coro, on the other hand, is the only controlled blending program in the United States. Coro’s blending rules begin with the requirements that the wine contain at least 40% Zinfandel and that no other variety can eclipse the percentage of Zinfandel. The complex blending rules are compounded by defined ranges for specific chemistry, such as alcolhol and PH, and also rules for aging. (100% new oak for at least 12 months, and another year in the bottle on top of that). All these factors make it relatively expensive to produce a coro bottling, which must also use a special label and top of the line cork. Total production rose modestly, to 1933 cases overall from 1825 in 2002. In contrast, there was a big jump after the first year, when only 1300 cases were made.

                                                                  Coro Mendocino

Yorkville Highlands

Now traveling to the coast on Highway 128 you will go through the Yorkville Highlands and the Anderson Valley. You will first reach the Yorkville Highlands that flanks both sides of Highway 128. In 1998 the region was approved as an AVA, primarily because of its distinctive soils and temperatures relative to surrounding growing areas. Yorkville Highlands rocky soils, with high gravel content, differ from the loamy, clay soils common to neighboring appellations. These highly pourous soils allow for great water drainage, which forces the roots of the vines to dig deep for water. This results in low vigor vines that yield concentrated fruit. Day temperatures here fall between those of hot Alexander Valley and the cool Anderson Valley. However, at night Yorkville Highlands experiences greater cooling than either of these adjacent appellations. The moderate temperatures of the Yorkville Highlands are suitable for Sauvignon Blanc, and also show great promise for reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The wineries you will find here are:

1. Le Vin Vineyards
2. Yorkville Cellars
3. Maple Creek Winery
4. Meyer Family Winery

In addition check out there festival they hold in August: Yorkville Highlands Wine Festival

                                                                    Highlands Ranch

Anderson Valley

Continuing west on Highway 128 you will reach the town of Booneville. It is between Booneville and Navarro where you will be in the Anderson Valley. Anderson Valley now ranks with the top Pinot Noir regions in North America. While production is moderate, the quality is exceptional. Anderson Valley is an unusual transverse appellation, going laterally through the coastal range rather than lying between ridges. Anderson Valley is less than 15 miles from the cold Pacific ocean. The temperatures can range with daily high low temperatures of up to 40 to 50 degrees. This enables Pinot Noir growers to keep acid development in line with sugar and flavor formation through long, warm Indian summers. It also makes for superb Gewuztraminer and Riesling, and sparkling wine. The Anderson Valley hosts a wide range of wineries. The wineries you will find here are:

1. Brutocao Cellars
2. Christine Woods Winery
3. Claudia Springs Winery
4. Copain Wine Cellars
5. Demuth Winery
6. Esterlina Winery
7. Goldeneye Winery
8. Greenwood Ridge Vineyards
9. Handley Cellars
10. Harmonique Wine
11. Husch vineyards
12. Lazy Creek Vineyards
13. Londer Vineyards
14. Navarro Vineyards
15. Tulouse Vineyards and Winery    
16. Philo Ridge Vineyards
17. Raye’s Hill Vineyards & Winery
18. Roederer Estate
19. Scharffenberger Cellars

In addition check out there festivals: International Alsace Varietal Festival – 2007 Pinot Noir Festival (2007 festival website in early March) link to last years 2006 Pinot Noir Festival, and the California Wine Tasting Championships.

                                                                                            Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival